Kitchen Cabinets Chalk Paint Ideas Duck Egg Blue
Painting and having bug with:
Water stains bleeding through
Wood grain showing
Wood tannins haemorrhage
Painting with a "white" or light colored paint over Mahogany or Pine
Painting kitchen cabinets that have a lot of grain and it is causing tannin to drain through? Or, even though you cleaned the cabinets well and rinsed off any cleaning products, yous are still getting "grease" stains coming thru? Keep in mid, we promote Chalk Paint® as a minimal prep pigment, but you have to be realistic and information technology is not a miracle. Especially when it comes to kitchen cabinets- where – personally I similar to say, some people utilise their cabinets and some people corruption their cabinets. If the doors take a heavy grain, or are oak, or perchance the pre-existing top coat has worn abroad …….especially on doors nearly the kitchen sink, or the cooking expanse near the stove or above it, side by side to the dishwasher where the door opens and hot steam is released or doors that become handled a lot like where you lot keep your drinking glasses – the pre-existing top coat may have been worn abroad. Go on in mind too, if using "white" colored paints…all of these issues in a higher place are a concern, but even more then – because once more, "white" does not incorporate as much color blocking pigment.
Painting RAW WOOD and the paint is getting sucked up
Issues with the pigment corking or not adhering in a sure spot?
Painting a piece that you accept sanded and at present have different finishes visible
Planning on painting Pure White or Old White over a wood piece and concerned with stain or wood grain bleeding?
You lot used wood filler on a section and the paint is taking to it differently?
The piece stinks really bad of either cigarette fume, a musty basement…or who knows what!
Painting kitchen cabinets and you are concerned of drain through? Personally, I do not apply shellac – UNLESS I accept to. It is extra piece of work. If I get drain through after my 1st coat of pigment dries- then I will employ my two coats of shellac based on my instructions below. Shellac can be practical over chalk pigment but not wax. Then, wait and come across what happens. And – you may merely have bleed through on a couple of doors.
Please read this mail:
one.Apply Shellac …..Nigh importantly- recollect with this solution – that you lot cannot "spot treat" a water marker or "consequence" areas- rather you must practise the whole section. For example- water marks from a glass on peak? Shellac the whole tiptop, non just the h2o marking. Have a section on a kitchen chiffonier door that keeps getting a stain bleeding though? Shellac the whole door!
Apply TWO uniform sparse COATS of Shellac
two. Lightly sand after using to prevent paint from crackling.
three. Pigment with Chalk Paint®
4. Wax
If you realize yous need to shellac after applying Chalk Paint®- that is okay…go alee and use the shellac. Just remember you cannot shellac directly over wax!
If you take applied wax already, and so you will need to lift the wax using mineral spirits.
Lightly moisten a rag and wipe your furniture. Wipe edge to edge- not circular. Also- make sure to Not drip mineral spirits on to your floor. The rag should exist moist, not dripping wet. The slice should feel near like it did prior to waxing subsequently removing the wax.
SHELLAC APPLICATION DIRECTIONS:
I prefer to use shellac in a container. Reason beingness- even with ii applications using an aerosol can- I cannot guarantee that your coverage (thickness) is adequate.
Do not milkshake the shellac just rather stir information technology or roll the container in your hands prior or use a stir stick.
I use a lint gratuitous, cotton rag to apply the shellac. I usually take a rag and fold it into 4'southward. The I dip an edge into the shellac and wipe it on the piece in the aforementioned direction that I will be applying the paint. (usually the same direction equally the wood grain.) By using a lint free rag- folding it similar a hankerchief, and then dipping the edge in- and wiping the shellac on – starting the uttermost away from y'all. and wiping from ane border to the opposite side- you should have better coverage. The analogy I use – is that this is similar to washing your kitchen table. But always wipe in linear lines- not circular.
You will need two coats.And note- also thick of an application of shellac can lead to other issues also- so a uniformed thinned awarding is best.
One time done applying the two coats- waiting 15 to 20 minutes in between applications- and so you will lightly sand!
Never milk shake the shellac in the tin can, but rather employ a stir stick and mix well and notation that shellac has a shelf life of about a year to 18 months.
I prefer to utilise THESE RAGS (click here to link to the "better Than Cheesecloth" rags.)
Give the surface most 15 minutes to dry, and then repeat with a second, (uniform and sparse) coat of shellac. Never apply information technology thick. That can lead to issues likewise. But – I often utilize the analogy, "Measure twice, cut in one case." And then, two uniform coats is best.
Having to apply shellac when painting with a "white" Chalk Paint® is sometimes necessary over certain surfaces – like raw wood, mahogany, heavily exposed grain.
WATERMARKS:
Ahh- the dreaded trouble when you finally make up one's mind to pigment a piece of article of furniture or even worse yet….kitchen cabinets and then……stains are bleeding through the primer and pigment you accept painstakingly applied. Or- what about that amazing piece you picked up at a garage sale for next to nothing- only OH Boy! It stinks! Either that musty smell from sitting in a clammy basement, or the owner was a cigarette smoker. Or, did you use wood filler to "fix" some damage or did you decide to go from a "handle" to just a knob in regards to hardware and – you filled in the holes on the drawer fronts? Or, you have a hutch that your hubby built for you out of raw wood that has not been top coated? (that one is for yous Laura!!) OR…you painted your slice with Chalk Paint™ and you lot now see haemorrhage coming through. Now what do you do?
Here is a story true story of the progression of this effect with a trestle table that I recently painted for my shop, The Majestic Painted Lady. A photo of her is below. Doesn't she have great lines? I saw her and was in love and knew immediately how much potential she would have once she received a little TLC.:
First of all, at my shop I use and prefer specific products. Yes…I have used many products over the concluding decade, but just like make-up or soda pop, nosotros are creatures of habit and usually stick to the brand that nosotros like the well-nigh and that does the chore for what our needs are. Now earlier I become on…here is a little disclaimer I wanted to add regarding this mail. I am not endorsed or sponsored past this particular brand/company I am going to write near. But I can say that I e'er accept a agglomeration of cans of this product in my shop for sale and for my personal inventory because it has been a life saver…and as well a money and time saver for me. I do sell Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint Products, and that is because I love it and believe in all that it tin can practice. I am passionate near what I practice and volition never link my name to a product that I don't use myself and love! Then AMEN to all of that!!!
OK…with that out of the way- permit me get dorsum on track! So, you tin see in the photo above a beautiful trestle tabular array- but look close at the summit if it. Now check out the image below and you can sadly encounter the water stains that bled through after showtime painting it. Foolish me…even "experts" (and I use that term very loosely) make mistakes. Again- if you look closely at the tiptop of the unpainted tabular array- information technology was quite obvious this was going to be an issue!
I totally knew I should have taken precautionary steps – just perhaps I was in denial. I don't know, but either style- afterwards that first coat of paint- reality hitting me quickly and I did what I needed to do.
Ok, are you lot ready? Here it is…my secret to covering up water stains, that red stain forest that was popular in the 1930'due south &, 1940'south , Mahogany colored stains or preventing wood tannins from bleeding through my painted pieces of furniture or cabinets. This is specially important if using a lite hued color of paint…like white! It is…ta-dah…..using a spray shellac. Just like the 1 I have shown here.
This "miracle in tin can …or quart" also works great when dealing with knotty pine or if painting kitchen cabinets that were manufactured and installed in the 1980's or 1990'southward that have that yellow maple await to them or if you are painting a reddish stained piece and want it to be white. I typically recommend only getting the Clear shellac versus the white. This is especially important if you desire to distress your slice later on being painted and would not want a white sealer existence revealed. And- sometimes we start a project thinking it is going to be painted in 1 colour- and then change our minds. In one case you lot use the white sealer- y'all have sort of committed yourself to a white paint if you are going to distress the piece.
As for the cabinets I referenced- y'all know the ones that accept that xanthous woods stain colour and y'all tin can see the grain of the woods. The wood tannins bleed through your paint like the photo above shows. To prevent the bleeding some people approach this trouble past using multiple (meaning many!!!!) coats of a serious fantabulous roofing primer (adding more than expense to their projection.) And continue in mind- that primer is Non needed with Chalk Paint® Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan products! Lastly- just want to clarify- there is a functional difference between sealers and primers. So….here is something yous tin can consider- my hush-hush weapon using Zinsser.
When you lot have stains and need to spray your piece, ever spray the whole surface that contains the stain- exercise not simply spot treat. Just to reiterate some of import points: Become uniform coverage – do non only target the stain section. You wouldn't think just a quick spot treat spray of shellac in only a small targeted area could be visible one time painted, merely information technology is! I am going to echo that because this is important! Make sure when yous spray the whole area of the piece! And then in my instance- I sprayed the whole top of the table. And experience free to do this twice. Beginning, spray information technology once and let it dry which merely takes 5 minutes. And I dear the quick drying time because fifty-fifty the most impatient people will be impressed with this stuff! Next- spray another full 2nd glaze! When done using spray paint or a spray shellac- become outside and holding the can, flip it upside down and spray. You lot will see the spray in a few seconds will disappear and this ensures you that you cleaned out the nozzle and won't have a clogged can side by side fourth dimension yous need to employ it. Ever practice this before placing your spray paint or spray shellac away and you will never have a plugged nozzle!
Again, play it condom! Do this step outside if using the spray shellac since the shellac has a serious strong scent- but the smell goes away quick and dries in minutes.
And merely to reiterate this- when you have a piece of furniture made out of dissimilar types of woods- proceed in mind – that when you paint- the colour tin can appear differently. For instance… a wonderful customer of mine, Laura McGarrahan Koppelmann has a husband who is very skilled. he built her – from scratch a hutch! He used bead board and pine, and some other types of wood when constructing it. When she began painting it she had two issues:
1. The raw wood was just sucking up the paint!!
2. There was an obvious deviation in the shade of the paint depending on which surface you looked at. The pine sides took the pigment differently than the dorsum bead board.
So, I emailed her this post regarding shellac. Laura applied the shellac right over her existing Chalk Paint® and repainted- and loved the outcome. She wrote to me, "My beautiful, finally complete hutch! I Love It! Shew, it was a lot of work, but and then worth it…cheers for all your assist to make this piece of work. I learned a lot in the procedure. Information technology is at present "priceless" hutch ; )"
YOUR Piece REALLY SMELLS BAD!!!:
And although- I am mentioning this near the end here- this stuff is amazing for blocking out odors that may be coming from a piece of furniture. Information technology seems when I spot the most amazing slice of piece of furniture with incredible detailing at a garage sale, it always happens when I go next to it- It STINKS! Like, "brand yous gag" stink. Either that musty aroma from sitting in a damp basement, or the possessor was a HEAVY cigarette smoker. I like to utilise the analogy that spraying the piece with Zinsser is similar laminating a piece of paper. Water cannot penetrate through and get the paper- and that evil-smelling scent – will be totally contained. ***Just make certain to spray inside the drawers and any surface you tin can…like underneath, inside drawer pockets, and inside cabinets.
I don't think it matters what you use to clean or air out something that has been permeated with nicotine….. On a clammy day- it will scent all over again. The only matter I have found to really work- is encapsulating the entire piece of furniture with Shellac. If it is a dresser- spray the Shellac in the cavities. Smoke gets everywhere!
Below is the same table after one coat of Zinsser Spray Shellac and a coat of Onetime White- which is a paint that does not require a primer to stick to the shellac. Doesn't it look better? Once more- what I did was spray it with the Zinsser. Then repainted using Chalk Paint®. And then – waxed.
Whenever I have to sand a piece of article of furniture due to damage of some sort. It could be due to a scratch, a dent, chipping. Later on sanding, the slice volition have a variation of materials on one surface- like the dresser shown below. You tin can come across the raw wood where nosotros sanded. In this case- I also always spray that whole section with Zinsser Shellac. So in the case beneath- I would spray the whole top.:<br?
Again, this is wonderful stuff and if you pigment lots of furniture… I recommend always having a can on hand. Or two, or three….!
Imagine when you go to pigment those sometime kitchen cabinets that you cannot stand the color of. Salve yourself time- simply take the precautionary pace and spray shellac all the doors later on a good cleaning- and spray them twice. And don't forget to brush on the shellac to your kitchen cabinet frames too.
The Purple Painted Lady just completed painting xl cabinet doors for a home in Penfield, New York. We sprayed the cabinets outside prior to using Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan. Sometimes with kitchen cabinets- fifty-fifty though they have a top coat of their ain from the factory – later on over 20 years of use…that breaks downwardly. The stain from the cabinets in certain places can then bleed through. (It is interesting to pigment cabinets- as an experiment prior to shellac. You will observe the stain that bleeds through is in a shape of a streak every bit if something splattered on the cabinets and then dripped downwards the front and it is the shape of a splatter or spot) You will oft observe this most near cabinet doors located almost the dishwasher or kitchen sink where there is more water movement from washing dishes or emptying the dishwasher.
Another reason to use shellac: Painting Chalk Pigment® over a previously painted surface that has some type of effect – will most likely laissez passer through to the Chalk Paint®. This would happen no affair what type of paint you lot were using.
Then for example—–
If y'all paint Chalk Pigment® over a previously crackled surface- it volition cause the Chalk Paint® to crackle.
If you are painting Chalk Pigment® over chipping Milk Paint- that will still crusade the Chalk Paint® to scrap since the foundation beneath …the "Milk Paint" is withal chipping since information technology has non "bonded" with the base of operations surface.
In this case- I recommend that you sand back the milk pigment or crepitation lightly to accelerate any loose paint to come off or to remove the crackled surface. And then- blow off the surface of all dust and use Zinsser Articulate Shellac (once again, I like the droplets cans- just you have to use it outside) and applit in a thorough coat over the whole piece. Possibly ii coats. Shellac is very inexpensive and can be a life saver depending on the piece you are working on. I have a post on my website noted below you may desire to read.
Anyway- I think this trestle table looks lovely now! Tomorrow this gorgeous table will receive a mix of Dark & Articulate wax to showcase the "crocodile" textured surface effectually the front and sides.
Okay- now here is a spin to all of this information! I personally think that I use shellac on nigh 20% of my jobs. If I am painting cabinets in a kitchen a=or a bath- they almost always get shellac. But using shellac is a necessity for many jobs and something to consider- is what color Chalk Paint® are you using in your project. Reason being – colors with more pigment will take amend coverage. Beneath is a bunch of photos that are an example of that!
I picked up an old dining table for free. Just it had a large burn down mark on the top of information technology.
I thought I would need to apply Zinsser Shellac over it every bit and then the pigment would cover information technology, but idea I would experiment offset and only effort the Duck Egg Blue Chalk Paint® directly over the burn down mark to see how it covered.
Subsequently rolling one coat over the table with a foam/sponge roller I knew that I did Non demand to use shellac since the Chalk Pigment® covered the fire mark 100%. I am pretty sure though, if I had used Old White Chalk Pigment® or Pure White Chalk Paint® this would non of been the case.
After I painted the tabular array it looked so much ameliorate, but I thought it was a picayune plain. Then I played around with a big stencil.
I think the table looks so much amend now and learned quite a bit regarding coverage when using Chalk Paint® on this little projection!
Well, I hope you enjoyed this non-so-picayune commodity- merely isn't that typical of me? Please write to me, "Honey Purple Painted Lady" with questions and you lot may be featured correct hither online! Any painting questions, color selection issues, or fifty-fifty design problems- ship them on in. Please just write me at takuntz@rochester.rr.com and note in your subject, "Love Regal Painted Lady."
Until adjacent week…. in the words of St. Francis of Assisi:
A woman who works with her easily
is a laborer.
A woman who works with her hands
and her caput is a craftsperson.
A adult female who works with her hands.
her caput and her heart
is an creative person.
Stay well!
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~ aka…The Purple Painted Lady
Source: https://www.thepurplepaintedlady.com/tag/duck-egg-blue/